Every year, on the fifth day of the fifth month of the Chinese lunar calendar, drums return to rivers and lakes across China. Long, narrow boats cut through the water. Families unwrap sticky rice dumplings. Herbs appear on doors. Children wear threads of five colors around their wrists.
This is the Dragon Boat Festival or Duanwu Festival, one of China's oldest traditional holidays.
To many people outside China, the festival is best known for dragon boat racing. But the race is only one part of a much older tradition. Dragon Boat Festival brings together seasonal protection, food culture, family rituals and the memory of Qu Yuan, a poet and statesman whose story has shaped Chinese cultural imagination for more than two millennia.
And in 2009, China's Dragon Boat Festival was inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, recognizing its ceremonies, food customs, sports events and community practices as part of a living cultural tradition.
With Dragon Boat Festival falling on Friday this year, bamboo leaves are once again returning to kitchens and food counters across China. Inside them, glutinous rice is wrapped, tied and steamed – forming zongzi, a seasonal staple that has long marked the arrival of summer.
At its core, zongzi is defined as much by texture as by flavor. The glutinous rice becomes dense yet soft after steaming, with a sticky elasticity that holds its shape while remaining deliciously soft.
Depending on regional styles, it can range from delicately loose and fragrant in lighter versions, to compact and richly layered in more indulgent savory varieties, where rice absorbs the oils and aromas of fillings such as pork or egg yolks.
More than a festival dish, zongzi is a culinary marker of time. It's a signature of the season and carries with it memories of family gatherings, regional traditions and seasonal rhythms.
While the traditional recipes remain cherished, zongzi is also entering a new era of culinary reinvention.
Food producers and chefs are introducing fillings inspired by desserts, beverages and fusion cuisine, including rose and hawthorn, taro with mochi, coconut cream and increasingly experimental savory combinations. The changes are seen by industry observers as an expansion of flavor options rather than a replacement of traditional recipes.
Packaging design has also become a key area of development, with festival foods increasingly positioned as gifts.
At the Bvlgari Hotel Beijing, for example, Dragon Boat Festival gift boxes draw on the brand's Divas' Dream motif, blending Italian design elements with Chinese festive aesthetics. The boxes contain reinterpreted zongzi flavors, such as abalone with ham and dried scallop, and bird's nest with purple rice.
At Huang Ting Chinese restaurant at the Peninsula Beijing, this year's selection includes green Sichuan pepper beef zongzi, pork with abalone, custard lava zongzi and honey jujube zongzi.
The green Sichuan pepper beef variety delivers a distinctive numbing-spicy flavor, while the custard lava version adapts a popular dessert filling to the traditional rice dumpling format.
Design and storytelling have also become an important part of festive food offerings. Global lifestyle and coffee brands operating in China have joined the seasonal trend, with Starbucks China introducing themed zongzi collections and crossover cultural collaborations.
One recent initiative by Starbucks China is inspired by the acclaimed dance drama The Journey of a Legendary Landscape Painting, itself based on the Song Dynasty (960-1279) masterpiece "A Panorama of Rivers and Mountains" (只此青绿). The resulting product line features reinterpreted zongzi flavors such as rose and hawthorn, taro with mochi, coconut, and fermented rice with mung bean. Its packaging unfolds like a traditional landscape scroll, turning the opening of the gift box into an immersive cultural experience.
Despite evolving forms and flavors, the cultural essence of zongzi remains consistent. As a seasonal delicacy, it continues to represent family gatherings, shared memories and the passing down of tradition – now reimagined through contemporary culinary language.
Malaysia too has its zongzi – we call it "Bak Chang" (from the Hokkien term for meat dumpling).
Me, I prefer the nyonya chang. It is instantly recognizable because the glutinous rice is wrapped in fragrant pandan leaves (sometimes tinted blue with butterfly pea flower) and the filling is a delicious sweet-savory blend of spiced, minced pork, minced mushroom, and candied winter melon.